Wednesday, 29 May 2013

Pattern drafting - week 3

Hmmm...where to begin? I have mixed feelings about the class tonight. I spent it making the toile of the bodice to check the fit. 

Here's a reminder of my working drawing. Can you see how many curved seam lines there are? Practically every one! Anyone who has sewn a princess seam knows they can take a while. Double that when you consider the curve of the back panels. I have never sewed a seam like it! 

My first ever dress design

The rest of it came together quite well and I was feeling pretty good about the overall shape. The rest of the class were finalising their patterns and cutting out their fabric but that was ok - patience was on my side tonight. And then I got to the fitting, ten minutes before the end of the class. 

Bodice toile front

As you can see from the picture above we have to make A LOT of alterations. Essentially we have to redraft the bodice. The front shield shape will disappear completely. Instead the seam from the top panels will meet in the middle under my bust, indicated by the pins across the front. We will draft new pieces for the bustier which potentially means putting pleats into chiffon (gulp!). There is some excess fabric that we pinched out which will be removed completely. It is too tight across my backside. The shoulder seams need to move forward a couple of millimeters and move in towards my neck more. This will ensure the puff sleeves will fit well. They are yet to be drafted. I walked away disappointed, made worse by the fact that I can't do anything until next week as my teacher needs to sit with me and talk me through the changes. 

Bodice toile back

For those of you that don't know me well, I always try to find the positives as it tends to make me feel better. So let's try that now: I love the panel seams at the back. I continue to learn about pattern drafting and will be able to test my new skills again next week. I'm learning about fit and how to make alterations in a better way than I have before. At the end of the course I will have a dress that I designed myself, drafted and made with my own hands and will hopefully be the best fitting item I own. I will be able to use this knowledge for future patterns. I have a fabulous, encouraging teacher who will help me get to the end, even if it is once the course ends. Heck, she even brought some fabric from her own stash for me to consider. I have to say, I'm becoming increasingly more tempted! If I can find the right lining I think I'll go with it. It has passed through every opinion test I have put it through so far. The colours come alive with a light colour under them - I tried it with cream earlier. 

Silk chiffon - possible fabric

So has that made me feel better? A bit but not a lot. It isn't watching everyone else move ahead. It isn't really the fact that I have to go back to the drawing board. I think it is that I had got my hopes up that I would cutting merrily away next week. Generally I don't have to make a huge number of alterations, I'm lucky that way. This is just a bit of a surprise after the amount I have invested it in already. It will pass and I'll make the most of the next class. Apologies, this is a raw post but I just need to get it out of my system...


8 comments:

  1. Awww, that is a disappointment. I think you're a lot more upbeat about it than I would be! I admire your willingness to keep going forward with it. The fabric is gorgeous!

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    1. Thanks Gail. I try to remain upbeat where possible. I know that I get there in the end!

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  2. Oh no, I'm sorry to hear that the fitting isn't going smoothly. I know how disappointing it can be when you realise you need to do a lot more work than you thought. Keep at it though, the dress design looks gorgeous, and you'll end up with a totally unique garment. Your teacher sounds a fantastic support too.

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    1. Thanks Sam - it will happen!

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  3. It sounds tough but probably the toughest part is over because now you will go into next week really ready to take on the challenge. So great to hear that you have such a supportive teacher. Are you working on anything else at the moment? Maybe between now and then you could do a simple project ?

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    1. I think you're right. I do have plans for something new this weekend but as it isn't for me I can't give away too many details!

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  4. Its a shame its taking longer to get the fit right, but it will be so worth it! It's looking amazing, I guess seeing everyone move ahead is making it feel worse. Sounds like your teacher is really excited by your design, which is wonderful :) I'm sure you'll be cutting into the fabric next week!

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    1. Thanks Katy. Fingers crossed!

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