Thursday, 13 June 2013

Pattern drafting - week 5

I feel like progress is finally being made! I walked into the class with the dress practically as I had left it last week, in pieces and without the lining being cut out, as I didn't get chance over the weekend to baste everything together. That's not quite true, I did manage to underline the top front pieces. They are the only pieces being underlined. I'm not sure why but I'm enjoying watching this process unfold and hope for that lightbulb moment. But does anyone know why you would underline just two pieces and not the rest? 

Underlined piece

Last night I cut out the lining and was rather relieved that I didn't do it at home as I learnt a nifty trick. The top layer of silk chiffon will be made of the many pieces and thus have a number of seam lines. The silk lining, however, will have less seams but keep the same shape. How? We laid the pattern pieces together and pinned them along the seam lines and then cut out. This makes for a lot smoother and more comfortable lining! I also shortened the length as we will be making a slightly flared skirt to go at the bottom. 

Overlapping pattern

I stitched the side seams using a small zig zag stitch as there is some stretch in the silk. I then put this aside and basted the chiffon together. This took a while as the fabric is slippery and trying to match notches (or balance marks, I also learned) at the edges isn't so straightforward. After much pinning with my new silk pins (they come highly recommended) I eventually had the pieces held securely in place. 

Then the fun really began. I used an overlocker for the first time! I had been waiting to try one for a long time. The lining edges were fraying very badly and overlocking seemed to be the most logical way to finish the seams. I watched a quick demonstration and then had a go with the other seam. I have to say, my seam wasn't as neat as the other but it wasn't bad for a first go! And it is something that I definitely want to try again. It seems that I will at some point soon as I had to test the thread colour for overlocking the chiffon. Did anyone else raise an eyebrow at this? Turns out it works fine! 

My first overlocked seam

I have another long weekend (hooray!) I will be stitching up the chiffon and need to draft the pattern for the flared skirt and cut that out in the lining. I'll also be going on my first blogger meet up in Birmingham which I'm really looking forward to. I've been wanting to go on one since seeing the epic London meet up! 

4 comments:

  1. I have an overlocker on loan from a family member and boy once you have used one, you will never go back! It sounds like your dress is coming along great, I can't wait to see how it turns out :)

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    1. I've heard you can't go back once you have used one. A colleague said that you even if the stitching isn't even and people can't see it, you know the finish is much better and that makes all the difference! I need to hatch a plan to get one!

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    2. Overlocking my garments makes them feel professional to me! Even the old ones are sufficient, mine is from the early 90s and is still in great condition. I saw a giveaway for an overlocker the other day, here's the link: http://lilbitandnan.blogspot.co.nz/2013/06/post-fabric-weekend-2013-girls-night.html :)

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    3. Excellent, thanks for link!

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