Sunday, 8 March 2015

Burda Editorial Trousers

Can you get excited about office wear, specifically basics? I generally can’t and as a result this post is long overdue. I was forced into this make by going down to one pair of trousers suitable for the office and this was problematic in terms of laundry logistics but also in maintaining interest in my outfits. 

Editorial trousers side view

I’ve delayed making trousers because I knew getting the fit right would be a hard task due to my narrow hips and larger waist. Thankfully I was saved from a long headache by attending a trouser fitting session with Kelly, Hannah and 
. We spent a few hours around the house of the lady who taught me how to pattern draft and all came out with a pattern that fitted or a block that to use in the future. It really did feel like something magical happened that day - I suddenly understood a lot more about my lower body as well as which parts of a trouser pattern I need to pay attention to. I’m now on the hunt for a couple of tried and tested patterns to fall back on. 

Editorial trousers back

This pattern is the Editorial Pants from Burda 08/2013. I chose them as they are similar in style to my remaining work pair and it is a shape that I love. The main difference is this pattern has front pockets. To get the right fit, I cut the largest size to match my waist measurements and then pinched out the excess at side seams on the front around my hips. The other alteration needed was along the crotch line. I added a small amount to the centre back seam and remove a small amount towards the end of the curve. This worked well as I can comfortably sit and stand. The result is a pair of trousers that fit perfectly in the waist but I'm not sure about the rest of the fit. 

Editorial trousers pocket

I should have made another toile to check the changes before committing to finishing this pair. The £2pm poly suiting in my stash persuaded me that a wearable toile would be acceptable - if something went wrong I would be unlikely to cry over lost fabric. The pockets and inside waistband are made from the leftover peacock cotton that Minerva sent me to create my peacock dress. Building in colour and interest somewhere was a necessity to balance all of that black! Anyway, back to the fit. The fit issues I have noticed is a ripple across the front just below the fly, some wrinkling around the back and I wonder if the legs are a little to wide. All things to work on for my next pair. I hope you can see what I'm referring to - photographing black indoors is always tricky! 

Editorial trousers back

To my surprise, I enjoyed making these. I was convinced that sewing basics, particularly in dark colours, would be dull and uninspiring. Add Burda’s reputation for unclear instructions and welt pockets and that feeling grew stronger. As expected, the instructions were not as clear as you would like them to be. I could, though, follow their instructions for the welt pockets but the text on inserting the fly and adding the waistband was confusing. To make life easier, I followed the instructions from the Thurlow pattern to insert the fly which went in perfectly first time. I added the waistband in the most logical way I could think of. After the welts behaved following an initial hiccough, the rest of the construction was relatively simple. Being a wearable toile, I took a few short cuts. The waistband closes with a large popper as I was too lazy to add a button. All pieces were overlocked or have zigzag stitches within the seam allowance as the fabrics are prone to substantial fraying. As a result the inside isn’t as nice I would normally like but no one but me will know - except of course for everyone reading this post! 

Editorial trousers side view

Even though the fit isn’t right, I’m convinced these will get a lot of wear through necessity if nothing else. I’m now on the hunt for some fabric for another version (after a couple of additional toiles no doubt!) and ideally these won’t be black or another dark colour. Strangely, I seem to be only comfortable wearing dark trousers in the office. I’d love to know if this make sense to you or do you wear brighter colours?

6 comments:

  1. Trouser fitting is so hard, isn't it?! I have the opposite problem to you, small waist in comparison to my hips/thighs and I'm never quite sure exactly where I need the additional width in the hip area. Like you I am also down to one pair of work appropriate trousers, and to be honest if I had another pair, even these ones should see the bin!

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  2. You are right, I think that shoot from the back gives the impression that the legs are a tad too wide. In any case, you have done an amazing job with all those alterations to fir your body. And that with a Burda pattern! I only tried my hand at Burda once and I didn't even get to finish the toile... too frustrating!!!

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  3. The office-appropriate trousers dilemma was one of the main things that started me sewing. I had one RTW pair that fit. (Now up to two as my weight shifted a bit and an old pair fit again, but I couldn't have predicted that.) I have the opposite fit issue to you - small waist, big hips - and the Thurlow pattern was a godsend.

    I now have four pairs of work trousers total, and they're black, grey, burgundy, and .... purple. Bright, Dairy Milk wrapper purple. Those are the ones people comment on. Possibly it helps that purple is our corporate colour as well!

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  4. Trouser fitting scares the life out of me. It probably doesn't help that I am a bit rubbish at fitting in general, though. Yours look fine to me, although it might be that photographing black thing. They are certainly wearable!

    I tend to fall into the bright colours camp, and have some bright red trousers that I have worn to work. It depends on my mood though. And I do find brighter, particularly patterned, bottoms to be much harder to coordinate and style!

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  5. I love the little details that you have included that cheers up the 'soberness' needed for office wear and I think you have done a great job fit wise. Not bad going to have something wearable, even though you want to work a little on better fit, they look very smart.

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  6. You know what, I think the fit of these is easily as good as a RTW pair, so give yourself a pat on the back! Like you, I have a relatively small hip compared to my waist, so it can be difficult to find trousers that don't gape at the top. I've never really achieved the holy grail of trouser fitting but feel like maybe I should persevere, as I do love to wear them. One day!

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